Chicken coops plans

Index: poultryOne.com / Chicken Articles / General Chicken Articles / Building Chicken Coops Plans (Part 1 of 2) /

Editor’s Note: This chicken coop article is brought to you by poultryOne.com, the top online resource for raising urban chickens. Meet other friendly hobbyists, discuss this guide to building chicken coops, and get answers to your chicken coop questions about chicken housing requirements on our free poultry forums.

A backyard chicken coop is a poultry building or housing structure where chickens are raised. Cheap and easy to build, you won’t need to look into home loans for this structure. The inside of a chicken coop typically includes such coop features such as chicken nest boxes (for those raising chickens for eggs)); chicken feeders and waterers; and chicken roosts where the birds can perch to rest or sleep in the evening. Many backyard chicken hobbyists also construct coops with additional features such as windows and connected wire chicken runs so that their birds may gain access to sunshine and fresh air. Regardless of the type of chicken coop you plan to construct, it is important to take the needs of your birds into consideration when building chicken coops.

A chicken run can be as simple as wire stretched over a wooden frame!

Chicken hobbyists building chicken coops often have different pictures in their heads when thinking about chicken coop plans and housing designs. Some individuals may have a picturesque idea of a country-style miniature chicken house, complete with a white picket-fenced chicken run. Other individuals may possess a more utilitarian chicken coop plan idea consisting of a simple wire chicken cage propped up on wood beams for the chicken manure fertilizer to fall through.

Whatever your creative inclination, the chicken coop that you build for your flock does not need to be elaborate. A poultry coop can be as simple or fancy as you wish. If you’re a handy man, or simply skilled with a few construction tools, you can easily build a simple box-shaped coop without buying any of the many different “simple chicken coop plans” available online. However, you must integrate a few basic chicken coop requirements no matter what type of chicken coop you choose to build. Such requirements should also be kept in mind when evaluating ready-made coop options.

Chicken Coop Size Requirements:

Plan your chicken coop dimensions carefully. It is critically essential to ensure that your flock has suitable space. A variety of health problems may arise if chickens are not given enough floor space in their chicken coop. These include cannibalism, low egg lay rates and feather-picking. The more floor space you provide to the birds, the better. Chickens with enough space often perform more positively than their small-cage counterparts.

That being said, not everyone has the acreage to give their birds unlimited roaming space. Give your chickens adequate room by allowing a minimum of two to three square feet per bird, or more for larger chicken breeds. Also, the space requirements in a chicken coop will vary as your flock matures. Understandably, baby chickens need far less space than larger, mature meat birds. Review the coop space requirement chart below to calculate how big your chicken coop should be:

Minimum Space Requirements for PoultryType of Poultry BirdSq Ft / Inside CoopSq Ft / Outside in a RunBantam Chickens
Layer Hens
Large Chickens
Quail
Pheasants
Ducks
Geese
1
1.5-2
2
1
5
3
6
4
8
10
4
25
15
18

Planning Your Chicken Coop’s Ventilation:

Your chicken coop MUST be well ventilated! “Fresh air is good; drafts are fatal,” writes chicken expert Judy Pangman, in her book Chicken Coops: 45 Building Plans for Housing Your Flock. “Adequate ventilation is important.” Just as humans don’t like stuffy houses, chickens don’t like stuffy coops! If you don’t give your chickens enough ventilation, fumes can build up to a toxic level. Vents, placed on the south or east-facing walls of your chicken coop, can help to create proper airflow while also protecting the chickens from cold drafts. Alternatively, drill large holes on the north and south sides of the coop where the roof meets the walls. To keep out wild, disease-carrying bird visitors, cover these holes with mesh screens.

Coop ventilation goes hand-in-hand with coop insulation. Proper building insulation will help keep your chickens dry and warm in the winter, as well as cool in the summer. To keep the flock comfortable during these cold nights (and during the hot summer days), invest in propercoop insulation. 1.5 inches of Styrofoam sheets between the walls and ceiling provides excellent structural insulation. To reflect heat during the summer, some individuals choose to also use aluminum roofing and white paint. Additionally, cool the chicken coop by planting tallvegetation and/or trees around its exterior. If you do this, be careful not to let the plantsblock any ventilation holes and windows that you may have made. To provideextra insulation during the winter, you may also wish to try stacking hay balesagainst the north walls of the barn. Such rudimentary insultation is cheap, and when winter is over you can use the hay as litter.

In the second section of this poultry article, we discuss chicken coop flooring; how to protect your chicken coop from pests and vermin; planning nests, chicken roosts, feeders and waterers; and other chicken coop building basics. Read Part 2!

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References and Recommended Readings:

Index: poultryOne.com / Chicken Articles / General Chicken Articles / Beginner’s Guide to Raising Chickens /

Millions of people throughout North America enjoy raising chickens. The backyard hobby has gained popularity amongst both urban and suburban residents, with major media like the Vancouver Sun and the New York Times publishing in-depth articles on raising backyard chickens. Many start for the benefits, like fresh eggs and meat.

While hearing all the positive reasons for raising chickens, you may have also heard about some of the problems people face when raising chickens. Chickens can catch many diseases, such as Marek’s disease and pox; are preyed upon by predators and pests, like mites, ticks, falcons and snakes; and need to be fed daily and provided with housing. Sounds like trouble!

While raising chickens does have its potential trials and tribulations, it is a fun and fulfilling hobby that will add much to your quality of life. In fact, raising chickens has even been shown to reduce stress!

Thankfully, you can avoid the aforementioned problems if you treat your chickens humanely, provide them with shelter and food and water, and use some common sense.Let’s take a look at the top three “problems” associated with raising chickens. As a beginner, you’re probably a little worried about the whole thing. Never fear! With adequate preparation and knowledge (poultryOne provides many quality resources to help you), anyone can enjoy raising chickens.

Worry #1: “Chickens are highly susceptible to many diseases”. Well, this is only partially true. Like any animal, chickens that are not cared for well have a high chance of contracting some sort of disease, whether it be internal or external. However, just like all other animals, giving them the proper nutrients (lots of fresh water and good chicken feed) will adequately protect them from anything they might come into contact with.

Worry #2: “My chickens will be quickly devoured by predators”. Sadly, a chicken lacks any type of natural defense other than flight, and domestic chickens (thanks to many years of human meddling) often have a severely impaired grasp of the latter. However, taking some common sense precautions (such as ensuring your flock has shelter) will prevent any predatory mishaps.

Worry #3: “Chickens require a complicated diet”. Not at all! In a past article, we’ve already dealt with feeding chickens, and you can see they are actually very easy animals to care for and (here’s the good part) reimburse your efforts with fresh eggs and meat. You can also supplement their diet with healthy scraps from your garden and kitchen. They love that!

In the end, it’s like what the Bible has said all along: You “reap what you sow”. Carefully planning out your chicken raising adventure will allow you to reap much joy!

Now that you’ve seen what raising chickens is not, let’s take a quick look at what it is

First of all, raising chickens gives you lots of fresh eggs! People like you and I are becoming more and more concerned with our personal health and well-being. This is evident in the new flood of health care products and food becoming commonly available in neighborhood grocery stores. What better way to enhance your health than having your own fresh, wholesome eggs on hand? There’s nothing like eating protein and vitamin-rich eggs and knowing that they are untainted by artificial chemicals and hormones. (I have heard, according to one book, that a single commercial egg has the same amount of pesticide residue as a piece of steak!)

Another reason why home-grown eggs are so wonderful is that you can eat them without guilt. Ever since the social advancements started during the Victorian time period, people have become conscious of the growing, ongoing cruelty occurring on commercial “factory farms” every day. Laying hens are pumped with chemicals, and treated as merchandise/objects rather than the living, feeling animals that they are. Because of this, a lot of people around the world are either “going veg” or raising their own poultry so as not to be guilty of supporting such inhumane commercial establishments.

Ethical responsibilities aside, once you crack open one of your own, freshly-laid chicken eggs you’ll quickly notice the difference! The yolk will have a bright, golden color and will stand high and proud above a thick white. Some even say the taste is far better, although this is quite subjective.

“In many health food stores, fresh eggs are sold at outrageous prices, while the backyard farmer can easily produce dozens of high-quality eggs for only cents each!” says one visitor to the poultryOne Resource Network. This is so true! Even if you care nothing about health foods or “humane eating”, we know a fat wallet will appeal to you. Why shell out hard-earned money when you can get the same product, only fresher and cheaper!

Healthier chicken meat is the second main reason that people raise chickens. Have you ever tasted home-grown poultry meat? If you haven’t, then you are sure missing out. Imagine tender, juicy roasted chicken smothered with mashed potatoes and rich gravy…yum! The very thought makes your mouth water with anticipation. And best of all, you’ll rest assured that there are no harmful hormones, chemicals, or other artificial contaminants to endanger your health.

Thirdly, forget those tacky plastic pink flamingoes or grumpy garden gnomes…chickens are becoming very popular as lawn ornaments. Strange? Not really. Chickens are beautiful animals and quite entertaining to observe! The variety of feather colors and designs, the funny “hats” and feathered feet, the crazy antics..the chicken species offers much in the way of ornamental variation and enjoyment. Also, one can make quite a bit of money raising ornamental chickens! There are countless shows country-wide which offer large sums of money to the most beautiful chicken…which, through careful breeding, attention, and feeding, could be yours!

Careful management and planning, paired with resources like poultry books, message boards, and online resources like poultryOne will guarantee that starting your own chicken flock will be a breeze. Anyone, and we truly mean anyone, can raise chickens. From grade school 4Hers to seniors citizens, people everywhere have enjoyed the relaxing hobby/occupation of raising chickens.

Although raising chickens is easy, if you truly want a thriving flock of birds you will have to put in more than just your spare time. To start off, please read our chicken article on basic housing requirements. This article is not intended to provide all the details of this part of the subject, but it will give a nice idea of what you should look for. Once you’ve got the basic requirements down, such as space needs and window placements, pull out the hammer and nails and start pounding away. We strongly advise that everything be ready BEFORE you order your chickens. That way they’ll have a nice home to come to after going through the stressful shipping ordeal.

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Index: poultryOne.com / Chicken Articles / Breeding Chickens Articles / All About Breeding Chickens /

Before You Begin Breeding Chickens:

poultryOne recommends the following books to read BEFORE starting your poultry breeding project…

Storey’s Illustrated Guide to Poultry Breeds

The Mating and Breeding of Poultry

Genetics of the Fowl: The Classic Guide to Chicken Genetics and Poultry Breeding

If you’re one of the many poultry hobbyists out there who raise chickens just for fun, you probably haven’t given breeding your birds much thought. However, sooner or later you’ll be a little curious about this whole “breeding thing” that other chicken enthusiasts often talk about. Maybe, if you’re feeling adventurous or just gulped one too many drinks, you’ll even set out to learn everything there is about breeding chickens. And when that time comes, you’ll be so glad you read this article!

Let’s take a quick look at breeding chickens. When you set out to do this yourself, you’ll discover that it’s just as much about enjoying the funny antics of the cute, fluffy chicks as it is about culling undesirable qualities and fooling around with DNA.

History: All domestic chicken breeds (scientific name – gallus domesticus) originated from the Red Asian Jungle Fowl. Believe it or not, your funky frizzle bird or colorful Barred Plymouth Rock rooster came from this majestic, wild bird. Through many years of extensive breeding, we have finally arrived at the chicken breeds available now. Who knows? Fifty years from now people may look back at the chickens we have now the way we look back at the Red Asian Jungle Fowl!

Breeding chickens can become quite complicated, but always remember one interesting point. Because all chickens originated from the Red Asian Jungle Fowl, if you let your birds breed freely between species you will end up with a mangy chicken that looks just like its ancestor (at least, that’s what would happen in theory). Unless having a flock of odd-colored chickens is your goal, or if you’re experimenting with creating a new hybrid, keep separate breeds apart.

What is a breed? There’s no use talking about breeds if we don’t first clarify what we’re talking about! Birds are grouped together by similarities in their feathers, body size, color and carriage. These are called breeds, and each breed belongs to a large, more general group of birds. For example, the Leghorn is a breed and it belongs to the Mediterranean group.

Some breeders delight in the challenge of developing new breeds. There are countless, beautiful birds out there that are the result of the hard work and perseverance of professional breeders. However, beginners should settle for just breeding the common chicken strains before pushing on toward such a difficult endeavor. There’s nothing worse than diving in too deep too fast and getting burnt out before discovering how fun it can be!

Before you start: Take a moment to review some important concepts of breeding. First of all, decide what you want your chickens’ offspring to be for. Will they be used for strictly laying? If so, you should “breed out” several different traits, including broodiness. Why? A broody hen stops her laying cycle, and this reduces the overall egg/chicken ratio. You should also breed out the hens that eat a lot and lay very little. The less feed you have to feed them, the greater your profit.

Maybe you want to breed excellent chickens to exhibit. If so, you’ll probably want to keep the birds that match the Standard’s guidelines and cull those that don’t fit.

What about meat birds? If you are trying to breed chickens for consumption, then you’ll obviously only want to breed the fattest, fastest growing birds in the flock. The faster the bird grows, the less time and resources you spend raising it and the bigger your profit!

Any trait that is important to the breeder’s goal is constantly emphasized, while irrelevant traits are ignored. Any characteristic that seriously goes against the breeder’s goal(s) and proves to be detrimental is selectively bred against.

Traits you want: Fecundity, or the ability to lay eggs, is of obvious importance to the chicken farmer who is wanting a new flock of layers. That’s why is helps to keep a record of all the hens’ and how they lay. Understandably, this trait is generally ignored by meat and show breeders.

Plumage color is basically ignored by someone breeding layers, but is important for those breeding exhibition chickens. Keep an eye on the chickens and select the ones that match the Standard. For example, if the bird shouldn’t have feathers on its feet and you see one that has, remove it. Also, for meat breeders, the birds should have white feathers since dark ones leave black pigment spots in the skin. Most people lose their appetites when they see a polka-dotted drumstick on their plate.

Foraging ability and fertility are ignored by commercial layer breeders, but you should decide for yourself what you want your chickens to be like. Feed costs are reduced if the chickens know how to forage for themselves, and if you are a backyard chicken raiser then fertility should be bred into the chickens.

Size is VERY vital. For layers, they shouldn’t be overly large because large layers generally don’t lay as well as smaller hens. On the other hand, if you are raising meat birds then this trait should be bred into the chickens continuously!

Many more traits will be discussed in feature articles, including temperament, type, and vigor. We will also talk about what is called the “Vanishing Gene Pool”, an important point in chicken breed history. Check our archives later to read the continuation of this article!

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Index: poultryOne.com / Chicken Articles / Breeding Chickens Articles / Best Chicken Breeds for Beginners /

Before You Begin:

There are literally hundreds of different chicken breeds and varieties! poultryOne offers a brief glimpse at some of the most popular chicken breeds. For a complete overview of chicken breeds, we strongly recommend the following books:

Okay, so you’re looking for that “perfect” chicken, the one that will fulfill you wildest dreams. Although the hundreds of different chicken breeds may confuse the beginner, in no time at all you can sort through them and choose the one the fits your needs “perfectly”. However, let me assure you that it may be just a bit difficult to find that dream bird.

First of all, you need to know what you want a flock of chickens for (or maybe just one chicken). Do you want them for eggs, or maybe meat? How about as a tame little pet that is cheaper, easier, and quieter than even the smallest dog or cat? Or perhaps you want to get into showing-off exotic chickens at the local poultry show? Once you decide what you want chickens for, the sorting out of the breeds is a lot simpler and doesn’t cause as serious of a headache (pop a Tylenol and read on).

Lets say you want chickens to give you some cheap, high-quality, fresh, tasty, and nutritious eggs. Do you want brown eggs or white? If you’re planning on selling your eggs, brown ones usually sell for the highest price. If you want quantity instead of ease of care, your first choice should be a Mediterranean breed, especially the Leghorn. These nervous, flighty birds make exceptional layers of white eggs and have a great feed-to-eggs ratio. The only problem with the Leghorn and its “relatives” are that they become scared at the slightest sound and make a considerable amount of noise. If you have close neighbors you might want to ignore the Leghorn and look at calmer, gentler, and easier to care for breeds.

Heavier and not laying as many eggs as the Leghorn (yet still laying hundreds of tasty, exceptional quality eggs), the dual-purpose breeds make great choices for beginners. Not needing as much care as the high-strung Leghorn, much quieter, and a lot gentler, English and American breeds are classified as dual-purpose. They’re fairly large bodies and mostly lay large brown eggs, and since they’re so docile they make wonderful pets. Another plus is that, after they’re finished laying, you can stew them and serve your family and friends a delightful meal! Sometime called the “classic backyard chicken”, dual-purpose breeds seem to come the closest to the all-purpose chicken to meet everyone’s personal needs.

Meat birds are a special strain of chickens that grow their feather quickly, grow extremely rapidly, and have white feathers.Someone once said that a meat bird rooster they knew grew so quickly that he was crowing at the age of 2 days. They are also known to become crippled when they’re legs can no longer support their unnatural weight and size, which is why meat birds are usually killed at a young age.The best meat birds are crosses of an American breed with the Cornish breed. Some dual-purpose chickens are also used as meat birds, although they take a longer time to reach butchering size.

In our last discussion about chicken breeds, I left you with several breed generalizations (dual-purpose breeds, meat breeds, and layer breeds). It is time to look at these generalizations in detail, starting with dual-purpose breeds.

As I’ve said before, dual-purpose breeds seem to fit my idea of the “perfect chicken”. Although they don’t lay as well as some layers (but still do an excellent job at laying lots of tasty eggs), and might not have as much meat as meat birds (but still providing excellent, delicious meals that rival their faster growing cousins), dual-purpose chickens combine the best of both worlds. Better yet, many dual-purpose breeds are also known to make superb exhibition specimens. This is understandable since many dual purpose chickens have astounding feather colors. Take the Barred Plymouth Rock for an example. Not only does it have a lot of meat on its bones, but Barred Rocks also lay dozens of fine, brown eggs and have been known to live more than 5 years and still be laying clutches of yummy eggs! They also give an example of excellent feather coloring with their alternating bars of black and white feathers.

Another great example is the popular Rhode Island Red. Although its plain, red-brown feather coloring is not as pleasing to the eyes as the Barred Rock, the Rhode Island Red is an excellent layer, rivaling the professionally bred commercial layers (such as the Leghorn). Even though it doesn’t have as much meat as the Barred Rock, Rhode Island Reds still make a fine dinner!

Other dual-purpose breeds exist, including (but not limited to) the Houdan, Dominique, Wyandotte, Sussex, Oprington, Plymouth Rock (all 6 are general purpose breeds), Australorp, Rhode Island Red (all 2 are better for eggs), Langshan and New Hampshire (all 2 are better for meat). There are many more, but I think you can find the “perfect chicken” among the ones listed.

Dual-purpose breeds are not only appealing for backyard flocks, but they also meet and supply many different demands such as eggs, meat, and both! They lay better than meat birds and have more meat than layers, making them some of the most ideal breeds among the hundreds available!

Barred Plymouth Rocks

The Barred Plymouth Rock, or Barred Rock for short, is not only a historic breed but also an essential part of the backyard chicken farmer’s flock. These dual-purpose birds (which means they can be used both for eggs and/or meat) are one of the perfect breeds of chicken available!

In Part 2 of this article series I wrote that I would discuss meat birds next. Well, after the loads of emails that I’ve gotten about this site and our free e-zine (where the first two “Breeds 101″ articles were published), I’ve decided to look at the dual-purpose breeds in detail.

The standard weights for Barred Rocks are 9.5 pounds for the roosters and 7.5 pounds for the hens. Cockerels (young male chickens under one year) and pullets (young female chickens under one year) weigh slightly less. Also, different strains of Barred Rocks also vary in size and weight, so the above measurements are just a generalization.

The main reasons that people raise Barred Rocks are for eggs and for meat. Barred Rocks lay large, brown eggs, making them a great candidate for someone looking to sell their surplus eggs (since large, brown, fresh eggs usually demand a higher price). Barred Rocks have the “perfect” skin color-yellow-which is the skin color preference for those raising chickens for meat because yellow-skinned chickens look more appetizing than white or black (yuck) skinned breeds.

The origin of the Barred Rock has not exactly been determined. According to one source, Barred Rocks were developed in America in the middle of the 19th century. It was first labeled a “breed” in 1869. Several individuals claimed its invention using crosses of breeds such as Dominique, Java, Dorking, Malay and Cochin. This breed became very popular (quite rapidly) until WWII. Until this war no other breed was kept or bred as extensively. Why? The fact that it was hardy, self-sufficient, docile, sometimes became broody, and had an excellent rate of egg and meat production made the Barred Rock’s popularity explode!

Barred Rocks make excellent farm chickens. They are docile and become tame easily (especially if you’ve raised them from chicks), and excellent layers, make good mothers (when they become broody), make excellent meat birds, and are generally not aggressive. Taking everything into account, Barred Plymouth Rocks are wonderful chickens to raise, no matter if you are raising them for meat, eggs, showing, or just as a pet!

Rhode Island Reds

In our last section of this issue we discussed the Barred Plymouth Rock, an especially great layer and meatbird (Get other great poultry articles FREE via email by subscribing to The Poultry Gazette. Don’t forget that Amazon.com has a lot of great poultry books available!). In this article we will look at the Rhode Island Red, another interesting dual-purpose breed.

Rhode Island Red roosters usually weigh about 8.5 pounds, while the hens average 6.5 pounds. Cockerels and pullets weigh slightly less until they hit full maturity.

With its yellowish skin, the Rhode Island Red makes a good meat bird, although it is slightly lighter than many other dual-purpose breeds. The Rhode Island Red also lays quite well (which it is known for), supplying a steady source of brown eggs. Because of this the Rhode Island Red is used for eggs more than for meat, often being thrown into the pot when it no longer lays constantly.

Developed in New England, different Rhode Island Red strains have both the single and rose comb (with the single comb being more prevalent). The varieties of Rhode Island Red combs is because of its Malay blood influence, which also enforced its dark brownish-red color and relatively hard feathers. Today, the Rhode Island Red is a fairly common bird that can be found in many small flocks alongside Barred Plymouth Rocks, Leghorns, and Jersey Giants.

Rhode Island Reds makes a great backyard chicken breed, probably being the best egg layer among its dual-purpose relatives. Although it has not played as much of a significant historic role as the Barred Plymouth Rock (and is not as hard) Rhode Island Reds can survive quite well in poor housing conditions, meager food rations, and unsanitary practices.

How common is the Rhode Island Red? As an American breed it is quite common, although the Rhode Island White is rare. However, the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy has listed it as an endangered classic. Other “endangered” breeds are the Brown Leghorn, White Wyandotte, Barred Plymouth Rock, New Hampshire, Black and white Jersey Giant, Delaware, Dominique, Ancona, Australorp, and Black Minorca. For more information about endangered chicken breeds, read the next issue of Poultrylinks for our “Endangered Classics” article!

Leghorns

In our last section of this issue we discussed the Rhode Island Red, a popular dual-purpose layer. In this article we will look at the Leghorn, a commercial hybrid developed to lay the most eggs.

In a past article (it is now available on our site for reference) we looked at some of the criteria that layers should meet. The Leghorn seems to fulfill all the requirements, which is one reason that the major egg corporations choose this breed as its main laying flock. Cocks weigh about 6 pounds while the hens weigh about 4.5 pounds. Pullets and cockerels weigh slightly less until they reach peak maturity. Please note that different strains of this hybrid are available.

The Leghorn is a Mediterranean breed. For the most part, Mediterraneans make exceptional layers, although specific breeds may be different. There are currently 12 varieties of the Leghorn. You shouldn’t worry about this since overall they all lay quite well.

Is the Leghorn good for beginners? Well…if you are raising chickens to relieve stress or as a fun hobby then we suggest that you choose a more docile breed (a heavier breed would be suitable). The Leghorn tends to be high-strung, flighty, and will make a racket if it is frightened in any way. They have been known to cackle over the slightest matter, from the shadow of a passing bird to the wiggling of a worm. Okay, so maybe I am exaggerating a little, but I still think that the Leghorn is NOT for begginners.

However, if you want a breed with the best feed-to-egg ratio I suggest that you choose the Leghorn. It is a great layer and lays lots of white eggs. On the other hand, if you want to eat the hen after she’s done laying I don’t suggest that at all! You will find that, like most efficient layers, the Leghorn has hardly any meat on its bones. If you want a chicken that makes a good meat bird then purchase a hybrid developed especially for that purpose.

The Leghorn is economical because it needs only a little bit of food to produce a unit of eggs. This is very important because, in an egg operation, feed cost represents about two-thirds of the total production cost.

If you are looking into raising chickens for profit, then the Leghorn is for you!

Naked Necks

Have you heard of the Naked Neck? Although it may not be as well known as other popular breeds, the Naked Neck (also nicknamed the “Turken”) has slowly been gaining supporters throughout the world. True, it is extremely ugly and would probably give a little child nightmares, but it wouldn’t hurt to add this unusual breed to your chicken flock.

The Naked Neck doesn’t really belong to any class. Leghorns are Mediterranean, Aseels are Oriental, Delawares are American, Cochins are Asiatic, Houdans are Continental, Old Englishes are Game and Australorps are English, but Naked Necks don’t fit in any of those! Actually, this strange bird belongs alongside Frizzles, Sultans, Araucanas and Ameraucanas. We guess it really isn’t that alone!

Used mostly for ornamental purposes (its odd appearance is a great conversation piece), the Naked Neck is also said to be an excellent egg layer. A family that we know of raises Naked Necks and say that they are the best layers in the world! Even though this claim is exaggerated, many do agree that Naked Necks rival the dual-purpose breeds for laying ability.

Since the Naked Neck is such an unusual, unknown breed, we would be glad to have your assistance in compiling a more accurate, detailed article on this breed. Please email us if you have any tidbits of info to be added to the Chicken Breeds 101 project.

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In order to build your own chicken coop today does not require the need for any carpentry skills. This is because there are now complete chicken coop kits available that come with everything ready to assemble in a short space of time. Along with these kits containing the prefabricated coop made from good quality materials the tools to assemble are also provided.

When it comes to these kits you will find that in them is a house in which the chickens can perch at night or during the day if they wish. There will also be some nesting boxes that can be removed to be cleaned easily along with the roof that opens allowing you to collect the eggs the hens have laid very easily. Also in many cases the kits provide you with a secure are that you attach to the main coop that allows the chickens to wander around freely but safely.

The other features that these kits will come with and what you would have to purchase separately if you choose to build your own from scratch are food and water trays. So this helps to keep the cost of purchasing the additional items required down to a minimum.

But before construction of the chicken coop kit you have purchased can begin there are certain factors that will need to be taken into consideration. Below we take a look at just what some of these factors are.

1. Garden Location – You should select a location within your garden that will ensure plenty of natural sunlight can enter into it. Failure to provide ample amounts of natural sunlight will affect how many eggs the hens you keep in yours lay. But along with the light affecting the number of eggs laid if not enough is provided the quality of the eggs being produced is affected.

2. Size Of Garden – How big your coop is will be affected by the size of your garden and if the one you choose happens to take up over 50% of the space available in yours, then you may need to seek local authority planning permission to erect it. For those of you where space is limited then going for chicken coop kits that house only two to three small or medium size birds should be considered.

3. How Many Chickens Do You Want To Keep? – As there are so many different breeds of chickens that one can keep finding ones that you like can prove a challenge. But you need to make sure that you don’t house too many chickens in yours. Ideally for each chicken you keep you should be providing them with two square foot of space in the coop. This amount of space is ideal for small or medium sized chickens but for the larger breeds you need to provide between three and four square foot of space each.

It is only after taking into consideration the factors we mention above can you then decide which of the many chicken coop kits for sale today is going to be suitable for your needs. By selecting the right size coop for your chickens not only are you making sure that they are happy in their new home but are healthy and safe. Happy chickens are not only going to produce a great deal more eggs but the quality of them will also be much higher.

In raising chickens, feeders are one of the essential things that you need to consider. Feeds for your chicken are placed on a chicken feeder. In some cases, raisers that are using chicken runs do not need feeders because the chicken inside the chicken run find their own food.

It is very important that you are aware of the uses of the different types of feeders. Feeders are made from plastic or metals. They come with different sizes depending on the type of feeder that you want. The most common chicken feeders that are available are chick feeders, treadle feeders, plastic poultry feeders, grit hoppers, troughs and homemade feeders.

Chick feeders are made exclusively for chicks until they are six weeks old. It can accommodate up to ten chicks per feeder. This is designed for feeds that are like sand. It can prevent spillage of feeds. They are usually made of plastic.

Troughs are feeders that are made of galvanized metal. Troughs are available in different sizes depending on the quantity of chickens that you have. Its design is just like chick feeders. The only difference is it has wide openings and it is made of metal.

Treadle feeders are made of metal. These feeders are made for fully grown chickens. When the chicken goes to the treadle, it will open and feeds will come out. When the bird leaves the treadle, it closes automatically.

Plastic feeders are the most common feeders that are used in farms. They are made of plastic and it can be hanged anywhere. It has a cone shape. The feeds are place on top of the cone then it fills up the tray that is under the cone.

Grit hoppers are also a type of feeder that is made of metal. Like troughs, this feeder closes automatically when the chicken leaves. It has a sloping lid that opens like a door. This type of feeder can help you prevent pest that eats the feeds inside the feeder.

Homemade feeders are one of the best feeders that you can have. You can make your own feeder depending on your style.

Feeders are one way of saving money and raising healthy chickens.

In 1974, musician and composer, Jo Collins, met Mary Ward, a teacher and director. With a shared belief in harnessing the creativity in everyone and anyone, they started a theatre company. In a chicken shed.

Their creative process worked. More members joined as church halls replaced the eponymous shed. In the early 1980s the company included a boy with cerebral palsy for the first time. ‘If we’re open to everyone, why is he the only one?’ asked teenage members. Enter John Bull and his pioneering work on integration. He joined with Mary and Jo and Chickenshed became the first truly inclusive theatre company. Open to everyone.

Judi Dench and Trevor Nunn joined us as pro-active Trustees. Our first CD, a record contract, TV and West End performances followed – and an increasingly public profile.

Amidst all this, 1988 was a pivotal year: Lord and Lady Rayne met Chickenshed – and Lady Rayne became our President. She introduced our work to The Princess of Wales, who ‘got’ Chickenshed, heart and mind, from the start. As our Royal Patron, she shared her time – personal and professional – and gave us genuine loyalty and unwavering support.

When Enfield Council pledged land for a theatre, it was Lord and Lady Rayne who tirelessly raised the funds to build it. In December 1994, the company moved into a beautiful flexible space. At the heart of the building sits The Rayne Theatre, named after the family who turned our dreams into reality.

From our new home, things really took off. 1995 saw our first national tour. 2 months, 20 performers, 5 cities and 20 schools, enjoyed by over 5,000 people.

For Mary and Jo, the concept of inclusion that seemed so obvious at the start is now an international movement with a mission to change the world. The awards that recognise this – two MBEs, ‘This is Your Life’, Creative Briton Award, a Snowdon Award and Honorary Doctorates included – are as much for Chickenshed as for them.

Some of the original 1970s members are still the core of our company. Most have moved on, outside performance art, but the Chickenshed experience remains within them all. Adult lives underpinned by the values and skills absorbed during their magical time at the Shed. And an understanding that diversity and inclusiveness should be a way of life.

That understanding is just as relevant for members today. Every extraordinary piece of theatre they create at Chickenshed shouts out the same thing: anyone can thrive in an environment where everyone is welcome.

Incandescent, Fluorescent, Metal Halide and High-Pressure Sodium lamps are currently being used in poultry production facilities for laying hens, breeder flocks and growing meat birds. The incandescent bulb is the current standard by which others are compared, relative to poultry production.

Incandescent bulbs produce light by passing an electric current through a tungsten filament, heating it to incandescence. These lamps provide light energy over the entire visible spectrum, however much of the electrical energy is converted to heat energy as infrared. They have a light efficiency of about 8 – 24 lumens per watt and a rated life of about 750-2000 hours. A tungsten-halogen incandescent lamp will last about 3000 hours with an efficiency of about 20 lumens per watt.

Fluorescent lamps produce light by the passage of an electric current through a low-pressure vapor or gas contained within a glass tube. The ultraviolet radiation given off by the mercury-vapor arc stream produced along the length of the tube is absorbed by the phosphor material coating the inside of the glass tube, causing it to fluoresce at wavelengths that are seen as visible light. The wavelengths emitted depend upon the phosphors used in coating the tube. The new CF lamps all use a special triphosphor coating, resulting in light emitted in discrete wavelengths from each of the primary colors, red-orange, green and blue, giving an appearance of balanced white light. There are several styles of the CF lamps, including twin, quad and spiral tubes. They come in 5, 7, 9, 13, 16, 22, and 28 watt sizes with efficiencies of 50 to 69 lumens per watt and rated lifetimes of greater than 10,000 hours. Recent research has demonstrated that some may last more than 20,000 hours under poultry house conditions. However, these lamps will decrease their light output by about 20 – 30% over their lifetime, (Darre and Rock, 1995) and this must be considered upon initial installation. All fluorescent lamps require a ballast. The CF lamps have been used successfully in all types of poultry operations, including caged layers, (Darre, 1986) breeder flocks, growing broilers (Andrews and Zimmerman, 1990; Scheideler, 1990), growing pullets and turkeys. Research by Widowski, et al., (1992) indicated a preference for CF lamps over incandescent lamps by Leghorn layers.

High Pressure Sodium (HPS) lamps discharge an electric arc through a concentrated sodium vapor producing energy across the entire visible spectrum, but with the highest intensity in the yellow, orange and red regions. These are considered warm lights at about 2100K color temperature. They run at about 51-132 lumens per watt and come in wattages ranging from 35 to 1000. They have the longest rated life of all the lamps discussed, at about 24,000 hours. All HPS lamps require a ballast. These lamps require a warm up time to full illumination of between 5 and 15 minutes, which means that after a power outage, backup lighting may be necessary until full illumination has been achieved again. These lamps have been used successfully in poultry facilities, mostly in breeder houses and turkey facilities, with peaked roofs so that light distribution is more easily controlled (Andrews and Zimmerman, 1990).

Metal Halide (MH) lamps have ratings from 32 to 1500 watts and come in three different outer bulb finishes, clear, phosphor coated and diffuse. The MH lamps emit light across the entire visible spectrum, but are considered a cool light, having a lot of blue. They have efficiencies of about 80 to 100 lumens per watt and are rated at about 10,000 to 20,000 hours of life. MH lamps require a ballast also. Because these lamps must be mounted in a specific orientation (vertical or horizontal) they are not used much in the chicken house, but have been used in warehouse areas and egg handling rooms, where ceilings are high and efficient, bright lighting is required. These lamps also have a warm up period of between 5 and 15 minutes to achieve full illumination.

The following table lists lamp types and some cost factors.

Incubation

It is best to start raising chickens in the spring. This is the time in nature when the most eggs would be laid, and gives enough time for the chick to reach a level of maturity where it might stand a good chance of surviving the coming winter. It takes 21 days to hatch a chicken egg under the correct conditions of temperature. At a minimum of three times a day the egg must be gently turned hand or ‘rotated’ to prevent the developing embryo from sticking to the inside of the egg. The hen does this same job in nature very well, but chickens have lost a lot of their child rearing skills through dependence upon man, so you must take over this responsibility.

Why chickens can’t hatch their own eggs

Chickens have been bred domestically for centuries to produce eggs. But a chicken from the wild who sits upon their nest will stop laying to try to hatch their eggs. so the more a chicken has to do with man, the more they will lay and the less they will sit on the nest.

When a chicken becomes broody, it sits on the nest constantly. This behavior can be triggered anytime. What we do is let the chicken do it for 1 to 2 weeks, then lock her out of the coop and force her out of it till she stops acting all fluffy. They won’t snap out of it on their own for a while because “the chicks” never hatch. They don’t lay eggs when they are broody because new eggs would not be timed to hatch with ‘the others’ (they all have to hatch at once). less than compassionate chicken breeders would kill these because they are not good layers. that is why, after generations, chickens today do not sit on the nest. (This is not to say that there are no free-breeding flocks of chickens in the world.)

Restricting access to the nest is the only way to cure broodyness. unless you want the chicken to breed, and in that case, stimulating instinctual behaviour is what you want. in some sense the chicken is demonstrating its suitability as a mother. but because its instincts are impulsive and bread out, most likely it will peck at chicks after hatching and may just give up and walk away any old time.

Normally to get a modern chicken to hatch eggs it must be imprisoned on the nest with a cage, that keeps the bird in place (it should be able to stand but not leave the nest.)

If you are lucky enough to have a chicken that hatches and raises her own chicks, make sure that the baby is safe from predators and from other chickens. hens can be very jealous, and might kill the chick.

When the baby chicken is ready to hatch do not assist!

The first efforts to free itself are crucial to the chicken’s life cycle and it will die if you interfere in this mysterious process. Once the chick is free of the egg, and begins to walk, you should move it to a cardboard box containing a 40 or 50 Watt light bulb suspended from above, a small tray of finely ground scratch feed, and a dish of water. The first day the temperature should be maintained at 94 degrees Fahrenheit at the level of the litter of chicks. This means hanging the light close! Do not fear that the constant light will hurt the chicks. They don’t seem to mind. After the ninth day the temperature should be kept at 88 degrees. By day 18, it is fine to be at about 80 degrees. After six weeks the lights can be turned off and the chicken acclimated to day and night cycle.

As young chickens you should get them a bigger box. Raising them indoors for a short while acclimates them to you, and allows them time to grow their ‘outdoor feathers’. Doing this builds a strong bond between the keeper and the chicken. Once the new feathers have grown on its back and the chick looses its ‘angelic look’, you may introduce them to the outside world. Don’t rush this because the chick needs these new feathers to withstand cold and protect its lungs from infection. Chickens in this stage of development are gifted with flight, so make sure there is a top or screen on the box. It is in this flighted stage that chickens are most fun to play with, as they will easily adopt your finger as perch, and they will fly around your room if you let them.

Once you decide that its time to bring them outside, you must still be mindful of their flying ability. They can easily hop a six-foot fence. Integration into a pre-existing flock can also be tricky. Some keepers recommend against introducing new birds to an old flock, but we find that supervision and open forage conditions do allow for a gradual acclimation of the established birds to newcomers. but make no mistake, introducing young birds to an older flock is hazardous.

Molting

Chickens loose their feathers naturally, like a snake that sheds its skin. its called ‘molting’ and they do it about once a year when the light levels go down. chickens do not necessarily all molt together. it depends on ther age and breed. its perfectly natural so seeing chickens without feathers is not necessarily an indication that they are a victim of agressive behavior. the best way to tell if your chickens are agressive is to spend time observing them. chickens missing some feathers could just be molting.

People Chickens

One of the most wonderful discoveries we’ve made about chickens is their emotional compatibility with humans. For us, it is as if the chicken’s conscious rhythms are somehow at the same level or frequency in chickens as humans. The emotional content of chicken speech is observable and intelligible to us as well as them. They enjoy times of work and times of rest similar to our own (they enjoy a good breakfast and an afternoon siesta). They seem to be keyed into the same threshold of perception as humans, in their response to danger and in their reaction to our approach.

Chickens have interactive emotional states similar to humans. They feel jealously, greed, pleasure, affection and camaraderie. They are subject to life trauma like dogs and cats, and enjoy physical contact with the trusted keeper. They like to ‘snuggle’ and like to press their little heads up against your neck affectionately and with obvious relish. They like to hide in your armpit when you hold them and if you gently scratch the back of their neck they will assist you by preening the front of their neck. Chickens gesture to you by pretending to peck at the ground as a way of getting attention or feigning disinterest (while secretly wanting to be held). They particularly enjoy walking all over you if you sit on the ground and will seek out your warm embrace.

Of all the pets I’ve ever had, chickens seem the most well adjusted and balanced in their relationship to man, but they can be ‘little monsters’ as well. Jealousy is part of their emotional pallet. You can tell when a chicken is upset at you because it crouches and pretends to peck the ground while glaring at you, at the same time ruffling the feather of the wing furthest from you. It’s really quite astounding to be chastised by the alpha chicken when you demonstrate affection to a chicken of lower rank.

If a chicken wants attention it might peck you or jump on your head. You never know! They also like to dig in the garden and will tear up your plants if they get into it. And of course they can start laying eggs in bushes (their natural choice) and will escape from time to time.

The time to begin gaining your chickens trust so that it will reveal this wonderful side to you is when they are small. Handle your chickens frequently. Feed them by hand and encourage trick and individual behavior. Depending upon the breed and temperament, you will be richly rewarded.

In the world of pop music, the remix is often better than the original. When it comes to the panini on this blog, the same holds true.

My tastes haven’t necessarily changed that much over the years, but the more I learn about food the more I find my philosophies about it are evolving. Take, for instance, the Barbecued Chicken Panini I made two years ago (cut me some slack on those old photos, I was still relatively new at this). I’d still eat and enjoy a barbecue sauce-marinated chicken breast with mozzarella, red onions and cilantro on crusty bread today. But you know what I’d love even more? Shredded chicken from a whole-roasted bird, simmered in homemade barbecue sauce with fresh mozzarella and caramelized onions on chili-oil drizzled Italian bread.

God made napkins so we could partake of sandwiches like this. I felt like I was in a Carl’s Jr commercial, minus the bikini body. I savored every sloppy bite. Ellie Krieger’s pulled BBQ chicken recipe is easy to prepare, especially with the help of a rotisserie chicken, and the sweet-smoky flavor of the homemade sauce is mouthwatering. I ate this chicken for several days in a row – it’s the kind of dish that just gets better the longer the flavors meld together.

I try really hard to resist the temptation to go back to my early blog posts and update them to reflect my current thinking on panini and food in general. That’s what makes this a “blog” and not just a “website” – it’s an account of my cooking journey, embarrassing episodes and all. But while I don’t want to change what I’ve done in the past, I think a little recipe remix every now and then is fair .

Pulled BBQ Chicken Panini
Adapted from Ellie Krieger’s Pulled BBQ Chicken Sandwiches recipe on FoodNetwork.com

Serves 6

INGREDIENTS:

6 Italian rolls (I used filone), halved lengthwise
Pulled BBQ Chicken (see recipe below)
Caramelized Onions (see recipe below)
12 oz. fresh mozzarella, sliced thinly
Chili oil for brushing (optional)

DIRECTIONS:

Preheat the panini grill to medium-high heat.

For each sandwich: Add a generous amount of pulled BBQ chicken and caramelized onions to the bottom slice of bread. Top with several slices of mozzarella. Close the sandwich with the top slice of bread. Brush a little chili oil on top of the bread.

Grill for 3 to 4 minutes until the cheese is melted and bread is toasted on the outside. Slice in half, serve immediately and enjoy!

Caramelized Onions

INGREDIENTS:

4 medium yellow onions, halved and sliced thinly
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
Salt and pepper

DIRECTIONS:

In a skillet over medium-high heat, add the olive oil and onions and stir vigorously to avoid scorching. Season with salt and pepper. Continue stirring until the onions have a deep brown color. Reduce the heat and continue to cook until the onions are soft, 30 to 45 minutes.

Pulled BBQ Chicken

INGREDIENTS:

1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 large onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 (14-ounce) can low-sodium tomato sauce
1/4 cup tomato paste
1/2 cup water
1/3 cup apple cider vinegar
5 tablespoons molasses
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon liquid smoke
1 whole rotisserie chicken, skin removed, meat shredded into thin strips (about 4 to 4 1/2 cups)

DIRECTIONS:

In a skillet over medium-high heat, add 3 tablespoons of the oil and onions and stir vigorously to avoid scorching. Season with salt and pepper. Continue stirring until the onions have a deep brown color. Reduce the heat and continue to cook until the onions are soft, 30 to 45 minutes.

Heat the oil in a large sauté pan over a medium heat. Add the onions and cook until they are soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute more. Add tomato sauce, tomato paste, water, vinegar, molasses, pepper and liquid smoke and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer for 15 minutes. Add chopped chicken, return to a simmer, and cook an additional 10 minutes.

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Tagged as: barbecue sauce, caramelized onions, fresh mozzarella